![]() ![]() Technically these charts are not CO2 level, but pH levels converted into CO2 based on known KH. If anyone is interested in the charts of how CO2 concentration changes during 24h period in planted tanks, I put on my website some charts => see (it's in Czech language, but you can use Google translate). It's very quiet and saves CO2 well, but still added plenty of O2. ![]() I prefer the bean animal style over flow(biggest issue for many is the prefilter section and then the dry section needs sealed up). Sometimes piling on more and more current is worse. Wet/drys add their own issues, some can degas the system TOO MUCH. This was unacceptable to me so I switched to a wet/dry. With a wet/dry filter, the drop after you shut off the CO2 is very rapid, about 30-60 minutes, it'll drop to 2-3 ppm, with canister filters, it would only get down to 10-20 ppm for the 180 Gallon tank I had for an upper range in the 60 ppm's. The stability we are after is ONLY during the light period, there 's no need to gas the fish chronically 24/7, we only add CO2 for about 8 hours and then the plants also are adding 1-2 ppm or more O2 as well. Since fish typically limit the upper bounds, and we do NOT need, nor should add CO2 at night, O2 must be asured in conjunction with CO2. This is because only 1-2% of the CO2 we add actually is delivered to the plant's carbon demand.Īt first this may seem wasteful, but the counter point to all this is stability and. Lights and plant uptake has virtually NO EFFECT. You 'll note the exponential increase that then starts to level off between 9 am till about 11 am, then stays flat. This graph above is much more similar to what I typically have and find for my tanks. ![]()
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